Long maligned as a dull, lifeless hub by many Turks—particularly Istanbul residents who dismiss the Anatolian capital as a “gray, soulless desert”—Ankara is stepping onto the global stage next month, when it plays host to the 2024 NATO Summit scheduled for July 7-8. For delegates, journalists, and visitors descending on the city for the high-stakes gathering, this will be their first chance to see whether Ankara really lives up to its unflattering reputation. As a long-time resident who has called Ankara home since 2019, I have a deeply biased take: this underappreciated capital is full of hidden surprises, with thousands of years of history and a booming culinary scene waiting to be explored beyond the summit conference rooms.
Ankara’s roots stretch all the way back to the ancient Hittite civilization, and centuries later it grew into a vital Roman trade hub, renowned across the Mediterranean for its luxurious goat wool. For centuries, the trade sustained the city, but legend holds that 19th-century European smugglers managed to transport Ankara’s prized goats to South Africa and North America, collapsing the local wool industry and leaving the city overlooked by the Ottoman Empire for generations. That changed when Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, selected Ankara as the new republic’s capital in the 1920s. Over the following two decades, Atatürk oversaw the construction of a purpose-built capital: grand tree-lined boulevards, world-class schools, grand theaters, government ministries, and sprawling public parks, most of which still stand and shape the city’s character today.
For visitors with free time to explore the city ahead of or after summit events, here is my curated guide to the best of Ankara, from traditional Turkish fare to modern cultural hotspots.
### Culinary Highlights by Neighborhood
If you are staying near the Cukurambar district, home to the JW Marriott and other major summit hotels, you will find no shortage of standout dining options:
– **Muslum Kebap**: A favorite gathering spot for Ankara’s conservative politicians and senior bureaucrats, this spot is slightly higher-priced than local kebab chains, but its exceptional Adana kebab and melt-in-your-mouth kusleme (tender slow-cooked lamb cut) are well worth the cost. For dessert, walk next door to Sitki Usta to try the signature moist “islak baklava.”
– **Bayram Usta Yaprak Kebap**: For a unique grilled meat experience, travel a short distance to this restaurant, famous for its yaprak kebab—thinly sliced marinated meat cooked slowly over open flame.
– **Taka**: This Black Sea-region themed restaurant, located just steps from the ruling AKP party headquarters and popular with top government officials, serves stellar doner kebab, traditional bean stew, and fluffy Black Sea pide flatbread, but its standout dish is rich sea bass stew. For even more authentic Black Sea cuisine, don’t miss Niyazi Kesim, a beloved local hidden gem.
– **1071 Manti Cukurambar**: Just a 10-minute walk from the Marriott, this spot serves solid Kayseri-style Turkish dumplings (manti), making it a great stop if you want to sample this iconic dish without traveling across the city.
If your accommodation is near Tunali, where the Grand Ankara Hotel, Sheraton, and Hilton are located, you will have even more diverse options to explore:
Turkey’s famous meze—small shareable plates of vegetables, seafood, and cured meat—are the centerpiece of the traditional meyhane (Turkish tavern), and pair perfectly with either anise-flavored raki (what many Turks consider the national drink, a label President Recep Erdogan famously argues belongs to yogurt-based ayran). For one of the best meyhane experiences in the city, visit Afitap Tunus, which serves more than 50 different meze using everything from cured pastirma to eggplant, yogurt, and fresh shrimp. Incir is another excellent option, while Ege Restaurant offers a more budget-friendly, laid-back experience with outdoor evening seating.
Contrary to what many first-time visitors assume, Ankara boasts some of the best fish restaurants in all of Turkey, thanks to daily fresh shipments from the Black, Marmara, and Aegean Seas—all within easy driving distance of the landlocked capital. Trilye, located on a scenic uphill spot, is widely considered the city’s top fish restaurant, serving delicious Black Sea kalkan turbot and a range of standout hot appetizers. Chef Bros, Yelken Balik, and Deli Yengec are all great alternatives if Trilye is fully booked.
For other local favorites near Tunali and Cankaya:
– Masa Başı Kebapcisi serves reliably delicious traditional kebab
– Mutlu Lokantası on Guvenlik Street offers what many locals call the best doner kebab in the entire city
– Cankaya Lokantasi, located near Ankara’s iconic Atakule observation tower, was founded by a former personal chef for Turkish President Ismet Inonu, and serves a classic presidential-style feast
– For pizza, try Studyo Pizza, where renowned local chef Murat Artukmac creates pies with fresh Anatolian ingredients. Unica on Simsek Street also serves exceptional crispy pizza, and its creamy hummus is a must-order.
– Kokorec—grilled lamb intestines, a classic Turkish hangover cure and staple street food dating back to Byzantine times—can be enjoyed at Kitir, near Kugulu Park, one of the only spots in the country that serves the hearty dish alongside cold beer.
– For a leisurely Turkish breakfast, don’t miss Vina Bakery on Cinnah Street and Kakule Bakery on Buklum Street, both long-favored by locals.
### Trendy New Hotspots and Cultural Attractions
Beyond traditional dining, Ankara has a fast-growing modern scene, and one of the most popular new hubs is the recently renovated Esat Hal market district near Tunali. This trendy space hosts boutique shops, cafes, community projects, and some of the city’s best modern dining:
– Poche, a modern sandwich shop inspired by the flavors of northeastern Kars, serves rich cheesy and meaty sandwiches, but its signature sutlac (Turkish rice pudding) is the real star
– The Log Burger is widely agreed to serve the best burger in Ankara, no competition
– Celebrity chef Tolgar Mireli recently opened Halden, a restaurant highlighting innovative modern Turkish cuisine; don’t miss the sea bass ceviche, half-baked chicken, Cafe de Paris burger, and silky chocolate mousse
– After a meal, grab a coffee at the sleek, modern Kakule Coffee, or walk next door to the lush Amelie’s Garden
– Soul Kitchen combines an independent apparel and gift boutique with a casual cafe, serving great pizza and tiramisu for shoppers stopping for a break.
For visitors looking to stretch their legs during the summit—including a certain French president who has sparked local speculation about where he will go for his daily morning run—Ankara has no shortage of green space. Botanik Park, Portakal Cicegi Parki, and Segmenler Park offer shaded, hilly trails perfect for running or hiking, while Dikmen Vadisi, a man-made urban valley, offers sweeping scenic views, and Kurtulus Park is ideal for runners who prefer flat terrain. The best option for a casual walk or run, though, is the sprawling Genclik Parki, which was commissioned by Ataturk himself in the 1920s.
No trip to Ankara is complete without a trip to Atakule, the iconic observation tower that offers unrivaled panoramic views of the entire city center. History and culture buffs will also want to add these spots to their itinerary:
– The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, an award-winning museum housing thousands of priceless ancient artifacts from across Anatolia, is an absolute must-visit
– The Ankara Art and Sculpture Museum, Rahmi M Koc Museum, and CerModern (one of Turkey’s top modern art spaces) are all worth a stop
– To learn about the early years of the Turkish Republic, visit the Is Bankasi Museum, housed in a stunningly preserved early republican-era building
– In the historic Ulus district, don’t miss the ancient ruins of the Temple of Augustus, the nearby Haci Bayram Veli Islamic shrine, and the Column of Julian, a Roman monument erected in 362 CE to mark the visit of Emperor Julian to the city.
As NATO’s summit draws thousands of global visitors to this often-overlooked capital, there has never been a better time to discover everything Ankara has to offer beyond its unfair reputation as a boring government town.