PARIS — On a crisp Tuesday inside Paris’s iconic Grand Palais, the legendary fashion house Chanel transformed its presentation space into a haunting, whimsical dreamscape: oversize beanstalks stretched skyward to the vaulted ceiling, and oversized blooms blazed in unnervingly vivid hues, creating a space that felt both magical and subtly off-kilter. A-list celebrities from across the globe turned out in force, with Oscar winners Tilda Swinton and Michelle Yeoh, French cinema icon Catherine Deneuve, Pedro Pascal, Lupita Nyong’o, legendary athlete Surya Bonaly and champion boxer Imane Khelif filling the front row — a star-studded turnout only a century-old fashion powerhouse like Chanel can command.
This eerie, enchanting contrast was no happy accident: it was the intentional creative core of creative director Matthieu Blazy’s latest collection, which draws inspiration from a forgotten fairy tale artifact the designer uncovered in Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s historic Paris apartment. The small leather-bound volume of classic fairy tales sparked a question for Blazy, who joined Chanel from Bottega Veneta earlier this year after the departure of Virginie Viard — who led the house for five years following Karl Lagerfeld’s 36-year tenure ended with his death in 2019. This collection marks only Blazy’s second haute couture outing at the helm of Chanel, and already the brand’s legendary atelier feels refreshed with a new, lighter creative energy.
When Blazy traced Coco Chanel’s life story, from her childhood in a convent orphanage to her rise as the most influential designer of the 20th century, he saw a real-life parallel to the classic fairy tale Jack and the Beanstalk: an ordinary unknown person who dares to climb higher, outwit the odds, and claim extraordinary success. That narrative became the throughline of the entire collection, woven into every garment and accessory with subtle, clever detail.
The opening look set the tone: a sheer tailored Chanel suit stitched with a grid of tiny embroidered bean shoots. From there, vine motifs crept up gown hems and curled around shoe heels, while delicate butterflies and blossom appliqués popped up in unexpected places across tailored blazers and flowing evening wear. Even small accessories leaned into the fairy tale theme: mini evening bags were sculpted into the shape of sleeping bears and plump chickens, while heels were molded to look like butterflies and polished golden eggs. Blazy wove in quiet nods to other classic stories including *Goldilocks*, *Puss in Boots* and *The Ugly Duckling*, never spelling out the references explicitly for those who catch them.
Much of the collection’s magic is hidden in its intimate, handcrafted details, a hallmark of haute couture craft. Tailored jackets feature hand-painted inner linings, and sheer silk panels stitched with playful mock to-do lists — high-level couture craftsmanship applied to a mundane, relatable detail of everyday life. Blazy also left raw, frayed edges on many hems, a subtle tribute to Coco Chanel’s own fitting process, where she would often attack unfinished garments with pins to adjust their fit on the spot.
Blazy emphasizes that for Chanel, haute couture is never just a whimsical fantasy. “Haute Couture at Chanel is not just a fairy tale; in essence it is for women, their realities and their adventures of the everyday,” he explained. That philosophy anchors the entire collection: for all its storybook whimsy, Blazy stripped away unnecessary grandeur to leave wearable, functional garments designed for modern women’s daily lives. Standouts include a sharply structured wool coat, a shimmering red sequined shift dress, and a streamlined evening look pared back to a simple black tunic and straight-leg trousers. This quiet, understated confidence is one of Coco Chanel’s most enduring signatures — the ability to walk into a room in a simple, understated look and outshine every overworked formal outfit around you — and Blazy has reimagined the trick for 21st century audiences. He also reinforced this inclusive ethos by casting models of all age groups across the show, letting the diverse lineup speak for itself without fanfare.
After the traditional closing bridal gown that closes every Chanel couture show, Blazy delivered a purposeful final twist: the closing look was a simple, sleek off-the-black shoulder gown, far from a traditional wedding dress. The choice was a quiet nod to a little-known detail of Coco Chanel’s life: the iconic designer never married.
By the end of the presentation, the entire event felt like a fairy tale come to life. A-list guests gathered to witness a one-of-a-kind fashion spectacle, and left with a thoughtful, grounded meditation on the everyday adventures of modern women — just as Blazy intended.