Dior couture debut for Anderson mixes wonder, wit, celebrity-wattage — and an occasional wobble

PARIS — The Musée Rodin transformed into an anticipatory stage for Dior’s haute couture spectacle, where celebrity guests including French First Lady Brigitte Macron, Lauren Sánchez Bezos, and Parker Posey awaited the arrival of pop icon Rihanna. As the lights dimmed, a suspended ceiling garden of delicate flowers set the tone—petals descending gracefully to the floor, embodying Jonathan Anderson’s thematic vision of beauty under tension.

This marked the inaugural haute couture presentation by Anderson, the Northern Irish designer who simultaneously helms Dior’s menswear, womenswear, and couture divisions—a unprecedented triple role in the modern era of the fashion house. As a cornerstone of the LVMH luxury conglomerate, Dior utilizes couture to demonstrate artistic prowess and technical mastery.

Titled ‘Nature in Motion,’ the collection reimagined historical fragments through a contemporary lens, employing a disciplined palette of black, white, and ecru punctuated by vibrant bursts of color and texture. Clean lines alternated with soft draping and structured silhouettes, showcasing Anderson’s signature crispness previously evident in his work at Loewe and Dior menswear.

The show’s most provocative statements included pannier gowns reinterpreted as modern fanny pack silhouettes—a characteristically witty Anderson gesture that transformed historical volume into contemporary relevance. Micro-detailing ascended to macro-impact through intricate floral motifs crafted from silk, chiffon, and organza, layered to evoke feather-like textures.

Notable touches included oversized hydrangea-inspired earrings, a decorative nod to Dior’s legacy that reflected creative dialogue with former director John Galliano. While the collection demonstrated formidable ambition and technical achievement, it occasionally revealed a designer still synthesizing his distinct vision for Dior’s couture identity—strong individual elements seeking cohesive harmony within the garden-inspired universe Anderson envisioned.