MILAN — The fashion world witnessed a significant transition as Giorgio Armani’s first menswear collection since the iconic designer’s passing debuted under the sole creative direction of his longtime collaborator Leo Dell’Orco. The showcase, which closed Milan Fashion Week, attracted celebrity attendees including Ricky Martin and Hudson Williams in the front row.
The collection masterfully balanced Armani’s heritage with contemporary innovation, maintaining the brand’s signature soft tailoring while introducing sharper, modern elements. The presentation opened with a fresh color narrative, featuring a loden green top paired with a textured jacket and gray trousers. Iridescent jewel tones in calming purples and lapis blues created striking contrasts against luxurious velvet, cashmere, and chenille fabrics.
Archival Armani aesthetics emerged through blouson bomber jackets and belted trench coats complemented by simple white shirts with ties, alongside the brand’s trademark pleated trousers. The ensembles were completed with slightly crumpled fedora hats, adding a touch of casual sophistication.
In a departure from Armani’s usual presentation style, the new collection received a full walk-through finale, with Martin capturing the moment from his front-row seat as the audience applauded enthusiastically. Fashion experts noted the collection’s heightened energy and joyful spirit, with WWD’s Fashion and Style Director Alex Badia observing, ‘There is something about joy. It is not a new beginning but you can sense something new is happening.’
Carlo Capasa, head of Milan’s fashion chamber, praised the collection as ‘very modern’ while maintaining ‘the true spirit of Armani.’ Dell’Orco, who collaborated with Armani for four decades, received extended applause when he took his bow, notably dressed in a double-breasted suit without a tie—a subtle but meaningful departure from Armani’s signature dark T-shirt and blazer combination.