One of the most decorated and recognizable names in high-altitude mountaineering, British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja, is among 10 climbers unaccounted for after a sudden avalanche struck Broad Peak, an 8,047-meter eight-thousander located in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region on Thursday. Rescue teams have already launched search and recovery operations to locate the missing group, leaving the global mountaineering community on edge.
Purja, widely known by his nickname Nims Dai, built his legendary reputation on defying long-standing mountaineering records. His most iconic achievement came in 2019, when he completed ascents of all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter-plus peaks in just six months and six days — shattering the previous record of nearly eight years. This groundbreaking expedition, dubbed Project Possible, was later turned into the popular Netflix documentary *14 Peaks: Nothing is Impossible*, which catapulted him to global fame.
Born 43 years ago in a small mountain village 1,600 meters above sea level in Nepal’s Myagdi district, Purja grew up in a family with deep ties to the Gurkhas, the famed Nepali soldier contingent that has served in the British Army for over two centuries. Following in the footsteps of his father and older brothers, he joined the British Army at 18 in 2003, and five years later moved to the Royal Marines. It was during his 16-year military career that his passion for high-altitude climbing began to grow.
A defining turning point came in 2012, when Purja trekked to Everest Base Camp. Instead of returning to Kathmandu as originally scheduled, he chose to stay and learn professional climbing techniques. He quickly notched his first major summit, conquering Nepal’s 6,118-meter Lobuche East, setting the stage for the historic feats that would follow. That spontaneous, opportunity-driven approach to adventure remained a core part of his mountaineering identity all the way to his final fateful expedition.
In his last public update posted to X on Monday, just days before the avalanche, Purja revealed that adding Broad Peak to his itinerary had been an unplanned change. Initially, he had only intended to summit Gasherbrum II, another Karakoram-range eight-thousander he successfully climbed on July 21, marking his 57th overall eight-thousander summit. But shortly before departing for Pakistan, he realized that summiting Broad Peak would leave him just one peak away from making history as the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice without using supplemental oxygen.
“This wasn’t planned,” Purja wrote. “But opportunities don’t scream: they whisper to those already working in silence. Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted.” The post also paid tribute to all who had shaped his career, adding: “This one is dedicated to everyone who carried me here. Supporters. Critics. All of you. Without both sides, there is no fire. So thank you genuinely.”
Beyond his record-breaking ascents, Purja has left a complex mark on the global mountaineering community. In 2018, he was awarded an MBE, a top civilian honor, by Queen Elizabeth II for his contributions to climbing. After his 2019 Project Possible success, his viral photo of a snaking queue of climbers waiting to summit Everest sparked widespread global debate about dangerous overcrowding on the world’s highest peak. He later launched his own expedition guiding company and mountaineering apparel brand, and used his platform to advocate for greater recognition of Nepali mountain guides, whose critical work supporting high-profile foreign ascents is often overlooked.
Purja has also faced controversy throughout his career. In 2024, a *New York Times* investigation published sexual misconduct allegations from two women: one accused Purja of assaulting her in a 2023 hotel room, while a second claimed he grabbed her and made unwanted sexual advances during a 2022 K2 expedition. Purja has repeatedly denied all allegations through his legal team.
Known for his laid-back, irreverent approach even amid grueling, high-stakes climbs, Purja once told the BBC that he could have finished his 2019 ascents of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu two days faster than his five-day mark if he had not stopped for two nights to socialize over drinks. His documentary even showed he summited at least one peak while suffering from a hangover, after late-night parties with teammates at base camp. To fund his landmark 14 Peaks expedition, Purja remortgaged his UK home, with unwavering support from his wife Suchi throughout the ambitious challenge.
As rescue teams work through difficult, high-altitude conditions to locate Purja and the other missing climbers, the mountaineering world awaits updates on one of its most famous modern figures.