分类: society

  • Journey of a lifetime: A US teen Buddhist lama is now a monk studying in the Himalayan foothills

    Journey of a lifetime: A US teen Buddhist lama is now a monk studying in the Himalayan foothills

    At a quiet monastery tucked into Nepal’s Himalayan foothills, a 19-year-old Buddhist lama stood before thousands of pilgrims, one by one blessing bowed heads with a ceremonial vase and peacock feather, sprinkling holy water to grant protection, purification, and wisdom. He paused to grin at wide-eyed children who stared back at him with a mix of curiosity and reverence, working to keep pace with the small group of senior spiritual leaders chosen to deliver the ritual’s final blessing. Just six months before this sacred moment, this same young man — Jalue Dorje — was pulling all-nighters playing *Madden NFL* on his Xbox in his family’s home outside Minneapolis, pausing only to grab pizza rolls and Diet Coke, or text friends about upcoming meetups at TopGolf or Buffalo Wild Wings. Two seemingly incompatible worlds, and both are deeply his home.

    Recognized as a reincarnated lama by senior Tibetan Buddhist leaders, including the Dalai Lama, from infancy, Dorje grew up balancing a fully ordinary American teenage life with rigorous spiritual training that stretches back over 350 years. He graduated from his Columbia Heights, Minnesota high school in 2023, and just months later left his home state to begin full-time training at India’s Mindrolling Monastery, 7,200 miles from everything he had ever known. His recent trip to Nepal brought him together with his parents, who traveled from Minneapolis to see him, and allowed him to participate in sacred teachings led by Shechen Monastery’s abbot near Kathmandu.

    Where his everyday wardrobe once consisted of hoodies and sweatpants, maroon and gold monastic robes now mark his role — but traces of his American upbringing remain. He quotes both rapper Drake and 8th-century Buddhist scholar Shantideva in the same conversation, and under his traditional robes, he often wears white Crocs covered in *The Simpsons* Jibbitz charms. Each dawn, he wakes for morning prayers, then walks through Kathmandu’s bustling crowded streets, past street vendors selling fresh fruit, incense, and exotic spices, weaving around speeding mopeds as he approaches the Boudhanath Stupa, a 1,500-year-old sacred site ringed with colorful Tibetan prayer flags and marked by the iconic painted eyes of Buddha gazing out over the valley.

    On a recent ritual day, Dorje entered a prayer hall reserved for high-ranking lamas and doctorate-level monks, sliding off his Crocs before stepping onto the wooden floor. Incense drifted through the hall, and the deep, steady notes of traditional cymbals, bells, and drums cut through the low drone of monastic chants. Standing before three massive gilded Buddha statues, he bowed to Shechen Rabjam Rinpoche, the monastery’s spiritual leader, and presented a golden plate symbolizing the entire universe, along with a khata — a traditional white Tibetan ceremonial scarf. This was the first formal mandala offering Dorje had made since committing to his predestined spiritual path full-time, and the moment hit him with profound clarity. “This is the real one, you know? We’re here and this is really happening,” he said. “I’m doing what the prophecy fulfilled.”

    Dorje’s place in this lineage stretches back to 1655, when the first Terchen Taksham Rinpoche was born. Just four months after his birth, he was identified as the eighth reincarnation of the lineage by Kyabje Trulshik Rinpoche, one of Tibetan Buddhism’s most venerated modern masters, and later confirmed by multiple senior lamas. When he was 2 years old, his parents brought him to meet the Dalai Lama during a 2010 visit to Wisconsin, where the spiritual leader cut a lock of Dorje’s hair during an official recognition ceremony and advised his parents to let him grow up in the U.S. to master English before sending him to a monastery for full training.

    “From my parents’ end, educating me was a really big one,” Dorje explained. “They followed the words of his holiness; he laid the foundation, and they took that gamble.” For years, his parents — both working-class people who cleaned hotel rooms and did hospital laundry to support their only child — balanced secular education with early spiritual training. As a child, Dorje often wondered why he could not sleep in on weekends or watch cartoons like his friends, but his father would remind him that the early work was “like planting a seed that one day would sprout.” He remembers long early mornings spent memorizing sacred texts, and the stress that online skepticism about his status as a reincarnated lama put on his parents. “It wasn’t all rainbows and unicorns every day,” Dorje said. “We overcame a lot.”

    Fluent in both English and Tibetan, Dorje excelled in his public high school. Though he was officially enthroned as a lama during a 2019 ceremony in India, his parents let him remain in the U.S. to finish high school, honoring the Dalai Lama’s guidance. Growing up, his bedroom walls reflected his dual identity: a framed photo of the Dalai Lama hung above his DVD collection of *The Simpsons*, *South Park*, and *Family Guy*, right next to a copy of the graphic novel series *Buddha*. On his bedside table, he kept a journal full of diagramed football plays he hoped to run as his team’s left guard, and his living room held a senior year poster of him in sunglasses and his football uniform, striking a meditation gesture. He even made a deal with his father: memorize a section of Buddhist scripture, earn new Pokémon cards, and he often snuck the trading cards into his robes during formal ceremonies. “I remember when I first learned my Tibetan ABCs, when I was able to recite it all by memory, my dad was so happy,” he recalled.

    His daily routine reflected the balance he maintained: wake at dawn to recite sacred texts, attend secular high school, go to football practice, return home for tutoring in Tibetan history and Buddhist doctrine, and spend evenings practicing calligraphy or listening to hip-hop. After he got his driver’s license, he would cruise around town listening to Taylor Swift. When asked what he would have done if not called to spiritual life, he answered without hesitation: “Sports journalist would have been cool.” An avid sports fan, he roots for the Atlanta Hawks in basketball, Atlanta Falcons in football, and Real Madrid in soccer, and counts American figure skater Alysa Liu as his favorite athlete: “She brings so much swagger, but it doesn’t overshadow the sports.” He even won an award for a student newspaper story about Tibet he wrote in high school, and his teammates remembered him for his upbeat attitude that kept the team focused on having fun rather than fixating on losses. Still, he cried after his final senior season game, knowing it would likely be his last time playing organized football.

    For his 18th birthday, more than 1,000 people gathered at the Tibetan American Foundation of Minnesota for a farewell party before he left for India. On the long flight to New Delhi, he found himself thinking of one thing: “I was like, ‘Dang! I’m missing the first week of NFL!’” He packed light, bringing only headphones, a laptop, a fantasy football magazine, and a book on Guru Rinpoche, the master who brought Tantric Buddhism to Tibet. His parents traveled with him to his new monastery in Dehradun, near the Himalayan foothills — a moment equivalent to dropping a child off at college — helping him set up his room, buying a new bed, painting the walls, and building a personal shrine for his daily dawn and dusk prayers. As an only child who had never spent more than three days away from home on a northern Minnesota camping trip, saying goodbye was emotional for everyone, and his parents cried as they left.

    Dorje speaks of his parents with deep gratitude: “Everything leading up to this point in the history of all your lifetimes — the billions and billions of lifetimes you accumulated — leads to your family. To have such great parents is a result of a great past life’s merit. But not only past life merit, but the connection of karma — and love.” His mother, Dechen Wangmo, says she never stopped seeing him as her boy first, even as he embraced his role as a tulku, the Tibetan term for a reincarnated lama. “Would he be hungry? What if he fell asleep?” she remembered worrying about her toddler son during long prayer sessions. To her relief, Dorje has thrived in monastic life. While his American high school friends now study history, science, and literature at U.S. colleges, Dorje studies Buddhist philosophy, hones his calligraphy, and practices chanting daily. “He’s kind of found his groove at the monastery,” said Kate Thomas, one of his former tutors in Minneapolis.

    He still stays connected to friends back home through texts and WhatsApp, even with a 10-hour time difference. On his days off, he builds with Legos, walks to a local arcade to play *FIFA*, and watches Marvel movies and NBA/NFL games on his laptop — he still raves about Bad Bunny’s 2023 Super Bowl halftime show. It was his first experience with ascetic life, eating a simple daily diet of rice and lentils and washing his own clothes by hand, but he adjusted quickly, bonding with fellow monks from across Asia over conversations that mix spirituality, pop culture, and sports talk. “Dudes are dudes!” he laughed.

    For the first time, he is also living alongside other young tulkus, reincarnated spiritual leaders around his age. One is 13-year-old Trulshik Yangsi Rinpoche, believed to be the reincarnation of the same Kyabje Trulshik Rinpoche who first identified Dorje as a tulku when he was four months old. The pair bonded over their shared love of *Tintin* comics, and Dorje now serves as the younger lama’s English tutor. “I think of him as my spiritual teacher,” Dorje said after sharing a meal. “I’m profoundly grateful that I get to repay my debt to the one who found me and improving his English.” The younger lama simply smiled and called Dorje his best friend.

    Hours after Dorje blessed thousands of pilgrims — including his own parents — on the final day of the 12-day Nepalese ritual, the family woke before dawn to make an eight-hour bone-rattling drive over rutted dirt roads to the ancient Maratika Caves, a site sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, 100 miles southwest of Mount Everest. After exploring the ancient caves in awe, Dorje sat cross-legged on the rocky ground next to his father, and the pair prayed together, just as they had done almost every day since Dorje was a small boy.

    After several more years of disciplined training and contemplation, Dorje plans to return to Minnesota to teach at the Nyingmapa Taksham Buddhist Center, with the goal of becoming “a leader of peace,” following the example of the Dalai Lama, Nelson Mandela, and Gandhi. This journey began just months after he was born, and now, at 19, he says he feels ready for what comes next. “This,” he said, “is just the beginning.”

  • Zimbabwe’s vivid English first names carry family histories, from Privilege to Shame

    Zimbabwe’s vivid English first names carry family histories, from Privilege to Shame

    In Zimbabwe, a country in southern Africa with a deep, layered cultural history, naming a newborn child is far more than a simple act of assigning personal identity. Unlike the common practice of picking names for aesthetic or familial tradition in many parts of the world, Zimbabwean naming conventions turn common English words into living, breathing narratives that capture the emotions, struggles, joys and circumstances of a family at the moment a child enters the world.

    For 37-year-old Harare bar manager Privilege Mubani, her name only revealed its full, meaningful backstory as she entered adulthood. Raised never questioning the moniker she carried from birth, Mubani finally asked her father to explain the choice behind her name. What she learned unlocked an unexpected story of stigma, resilience, and quiet gratitude.

    Mubani’s mother had become pregnant before marriage, a status heavily stigmatized in Zimbabwe’s conservative social landscape, where single motherhood is widely frowned upon. Having already resigned herself to a lifetime of unmarried status and public judgment, her mother was surprised when a suitor chose to marry her despite the social stigma attached to her pregnancy. The experience left her feeling redeemed after months of public mockery for carrying a so-called “fatherless” child. “Naming me Privilege was her own expression of gratitude,” Mubani explained with a grin.

    Zimbabwe’s widespread use of English words for given names traces its roots partially to the country’s history as a former British colony, as well as its status as a majority Christian nation, where English remains the official language and the dominant medium of instruction in schools and government operations. But experts explain that the practice of embedding personal and social narrative into names runs much deeper than colonial influence.

    David Chikwaza, a decolonization researcher at Dublin City University’s School of History and Geography, notes that pre-colonial African naming traditions have long carried deep symbolic weight, rooted in the region’s spiritually oriented cultural norms. “Parents would name their child as a way of addressing a societal or a personal issue,” Chikwaza explained. “Colonialism promoted English as a language of sophistication, so Africans simply turned to the English vocabulary for expression, but the meanings remain the same” as they did in pre-colonial naming practices.

    This one-of-a-kind naming culture has often caught the attention of international observers and outsiders. During the 2024 African Cup of Nations soccer tournament, Zimbabwe’s national men’s team went viral on social media worldwide, after users were struck by the striking, meaningful names on the team roster: players including Teenage, Godknows, Divine, Marvellous, Knowledge, Prince and Prosper sparked widespread amusement and fascination on platforms like TikTok, where one user commented she could barely believe the names were real.

    The unusual names have also become a source of comedy for international performers. Learnmore Jonasi, a Zimbabwean comedian who reached the finals of *America’s Got Talent* in 2024, regularly draws laughs from U.S. audiences by joking about his own name and the wide array of unconventional monikers common back home. Beyond Privilege and Learnmore, common names that raise eyebrows abroad include Givemore, Best, Promise, Guarantee, Anxious, Innocent, Confidence, and Hardlife—all of which are unremarkable within Zimbabwe.

    For many Zimbabweans, these narrative names are a source of deep personal pride, and many see their names as a standard to live up to. Lovejoy Mutongwiza, a 33-year-old journalist and chief executive of independent online news outlet 263chat, describes his name as a perfect reflection of his own identity and his parents’ experience. “My mum and dad said they were madly in love and in a happy place in their lives when they conceived me, so they aptly named me Lovejoy,” he said. “It’s a befitting name. I think I have lived up to it because I am rarely angry. I am naturally a bubbly person.”

    Even those with names that outsiders might see as burdensome or negative embrace their monikers as part of their cultural and family heritage. Fifty-one-year-old Shame Chikwana has never felt ashamed of his name, and turned down repeated pressure from his sister to change it to a more conventional name as an adult. “I would never trade it for any other name. I was named after my late grandfather so it’s a heritage I am carrying,” Chikwana said, adding that his parents have never shared why his grandfather received the name. “I hope it stays within the family for generations to come.”

  • Palestine Action prisoner with muscular dystrophy says he is forced to ‘crawl like a wounded dog’

    Palestine Action prisoner with muscular dystrophy says he is forced to ‘crawl like a wounded dog’

    A remand prisoner linked to the activist group Palestine Action has laid bare damning allegations of systemic medical neglect and degrading treatment at a high-security London prison, detailing how failures to provide adequate mobility support and care have left him crawling across cell floors to access basic needs.

    Muhammad Umer Khalid, 23, is currently held at HMP Wormwood Scrubs awaiting trial over charges connected to a June 2023 break-in at a Royal Air Force base. Living with incurable progressive muscular dystrophy – a rare genetic condition that causes gradual muscle wasting, requiring consistent physical activity and specialized high-protein nutrition to slow deterioration – Khalid claims the UK prison service has systematically failed to meet his documented medical needs for months.

    Since being placed in 23-hour-a-day cell lockdown last October, Khalid says his mobility has declined sharply. What began as gradual weakness has progressed to a total loss of the ability to walk, forcing him to crawl through the prison to access medication, legal appointments, and family visits. In an interview with Middle East Eye (MEE) conducted through an intermediary, he described the humiliation of crawling past dozens of fellow inmates, saying staff treat him like a wounded animal rather than a human being entitled to dignity.

    Multiple failures in providing even basic adaptive equipment have compounded his condition. Khalid submitted repeated requests for a custom wheelchair, and even after a prison physiotherapist formally approved his need for the device on March 14, the prison only issued an ill-fitting chair two weeks later. The first wheelchair provided was too large to fit through his cell door or narrow prison corridors, leaving Khalid to crawl between his bed and toilet – a journey that can take up to an hour to complete. For more than 20 weeks, the prison also ignored requests for a shower chair, leaving him unable to bathe for nearly five months.

    Worse still, prison staff have cited internal health and safety rules to refuse any physical assistance to Khalid, and have barred fellow inmates from helping him. Staff cannot push his wheelchair, lift him, or support him with basic daily tasks, he says. During a facility-wide fire evacuation on April 23, Khalid was left locked in his cell alone while all other prisoners were moved to safety. Even after multiple requests, staff have refused to bring his daily medication to his cell, forcing him to crawl to the medication collection point regardless of his pain or mobility limits.

    Khalid added that prison staff, including a member of the facility’s medical team, have repeatedly accused him of faking his condition’s rapid deterioration, despite existing medical documentation confirming his diagnosis and progression. Over three months, he has only been seen by a doctor three times, and has missed two critical neurology appointments – one scheduled for April 7, which he was unable to attend because the prison failed to provide a wheelchair that could transport him to the clinic. Existing medical evidence submitted to courts confirms his condition has worsened dramatically since entering custody, directly linking the decline to his poor detention conditions.

    In April, Justice Cheema-Gubb denied Khalid’s most recent bail application, ruling that while there were legitimate concerns about the timeliness and quality of his care, his condition could still be managed in a custodial setting. The judge ordered that a copy of her ruling be sent to prison leadership, with instructions to urgently address the gaps in care identified in the medical evidence and conduct regular reviews. However, Khalid’s solicitor Laura O’Brien says little has changed in the weeks since the ruling.

    O’Brien told MEE that the full set of Khalid’s medical records were shared with the prison immediately after his remand, to help staff understand the needs of his progressive condition. “Despite incontrovertible medical evidence that he has a progressive genetic condition, and that it is getting worse, there has been a continued suggestion that he’s putting it on,” she said. O’Brien explained that prison officials have claimed they do not need to provide a full-time wheelchair because they have seen Khalid walking short distances, but they fail to understand that even small amounts of walking causes permanent micro-tear damage to his muscles that his condition prevents him from recovering from.

    “Those in a custodial setting have a right to be treated fairly and with dignity as much as anyone else,” O’Brien said. “With inadequate care from the prison, the damage could be significant if his medical needs, including being provided with a wheelchair, accessible spaces to shower, use of the toilet and access to physiotherapy, are not met.”

    In a minor update this week, the prison replaced the oversize wheelchair with a smaller model that can navigate prison corridors, though it still does not fit inside his cell. Prison officials have also finally issued a shower chair and ordered a new custom-sized wheelchair. O’Brien said the legal team welcomed the small steps but hopes further delays will not force Khalid to continue fighting for basic care.

    Khalid says that while he remains mentally resilient, he lives in constant pain and has begun experiencing breathing difficulties as the muscle wasting progresses to his arms. “My arms are beginning to waste away, which will stop me from even being able to operate my own wheelchair,” he said. The situation has also placed enormous strain on his family, who managed his condition carefully for nearly a decade after his 2014 diagnosis. His mother Shabana told MEE that during a recent visit, he showed her his legs, which had withered to the point of looking like “a skeleton with skin hanging off” – a sight she described as heartbreaking.

    Khalid was one of eight Palestine Action-linked prisoners who held a hunger strike last winter to protest poor detention conditions, ending the action in January. MEE reached out to the UK Ministry of Justice for comment on the allegations but did not receive a response ahead of publication.

  • Five Italians die during cave dive in Maldives

    Five Italians die during cave dive in Maldives

    A catastrophic recreational scuba diving incident in the Maldives has claimed the lives of five Italian nationals, marking the deadliest single diving accident in the history of the popular Indian Ocean tourist destination, Italy’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs confirmed this week.

    Authorities say the group of divers lost their lives while attempting to explore submerged cave systems off Vaavu Atoll, at depths reaching roughly 50 meters (164 feet). The Maldivian military, which is leading the recovery operation, announced that one victim’s body has already been recovered from a cave located around 60 meters underwater, and the remaining four victims are believed to be trapped within the same cave system. Specialized diving teams equipped with advanced deep-water recovery gear have been deployed to the site, but officials have stressed that the search and recovery mission carries extremely high safety risks for rescuers.

    According to local Maldivian media reports, the five Italian divers entered the water early Thursday morning. When the group failed to resurface at the scheduled time, the crew of their dive boat alerted authorities and launched an initial missing person alert. At the time of the incident, the Vaavu Atoll area, located roughly 100 kilometers (62 miles) south of the Maldivian capital Malé, was experiencing rough sea conditions. Local authorities had already issued a yellow weather warning for small passenger vessels and local fishing crews prior to the dive.

    Among the victims are members of Italy’s academic marine science community: the University of Genoa confirmed that the group included one of its veteran marine biology professors, the professor’s daughter, and two early-career researchers from the institution. In an official statement posted to the social platform X, the university offered its “deepest condolences” to the families, friends, and colleagues of the deceased, calling the incident an immeasurable loss for the global marine research community.

    While the Maldives draws millions of diving and snorkeling enthusiasts each year for its crystal-clear waters and vibrant coral reef systems, serious fatal diving accidents remain relatively uncommon, though a small number of fatal incidents have been recorded in recent years. In December 2024, a highly experienced British female diver drowned during a dive off the resort island of Ellaidhoo; her husband died five days later after developing a sudden illness linked to the incident. Earlier in 2024, a Japanese lawmaker died while snorkeling in Lhaviyani Atoll, another popular tourist region in the archipelago.

  • Hundreds of illegal motorbikes bulldozed in New York City crime crackdown

    Hundreds of illegal motorbikes bulldozed in New York City crime crackdown

    New York City has launched a high-stakes crackdown on unregulated two-wheeled vehicles, crushing hundreds of illegally operated motorbikes and mopeds in a dramatic show of force targeting linked criminal activity. The operation comes in direct response to a devastating tragedy that shook the Brooklyn community last month, when a 7-month-old infant was killed by a stray bullet fired during an incident connected to an unregistered moped, city officials confirmed.

    For months, New York law enforcement has documented a rising pattern of criminal actors leveraging unlicensed motorbikes and mopeds to facilitate illegal activity, from drug trafficking to reckless street activity that endangers innocent bystanders. These unregistered vehicles, often uninspected and unlicensed, allow perpetrators to evade police detection and escape quickly after committing crimes, creating a persistent public safety hazard across the city’s five boroughs.

    The mass destruction of seized illegal vehicles marks a significant escalation in the city’s ongoing effort to root out this threat. Officials emphasized that the operation is not an isolated action, but part of a sustained strategy to crack down on vehicle-related crime and prevent further senseless loss of life, particularly for vulnerable residents going about their daily lives. The killing of the 7-month-old child, an entirely innocent victim caught in crossfire, has galvanized city leaders to accelerate these enforcement efforts and send a clear message that the use of unregulated vehicles to enable violent crime will not be tolerated.

    Community leaders have echoed the city’s commitment, noting that the tragedy highlighted the urgent need for stronger action against illegal motorbike operation. While some transportation advocates have raised questions about enforcement tactics, the overwhelming public response to the infant’s death has underscored broad support for measures that improve public safety for New Yorkers of all ages.

  • Underwater memorial to wrecked slave ship draws pilgrims seeking to connect with their roots

    Underwater memorial to wrecked slave ship draws pilgrims seeking to connect with their roots

    Off the sun-dappled coast of Key West, Florida, Ruthie Browning slipped into the glassy Atlantic waters in early May, expecting nothing more than a quiet moment of respect at a sunken memorial. She had joined a cohort of Black divers and community advocates on a journey to a sacred maritime site: the final resting place of the Henrietta Marie, a British slave ship that sank 326 years ago, at the height of the brutal trans-Atlantic slave trade.

    The vessel’s tragic story is etched into the seafloor: after delivering 200 kidnapped West African people into chattel slavery in Jamaica, the ship set sail for Britain in 1700, only to be swallowed by a storm at New Ground Reef, where the Atlantic merges with the Gulf of Mexico. Today, a six-meter-deep concrete marker anchors the site, a permanent tribute to the lives stolen and forever altered by the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Browning arrived ready to observe, honor, and depart—but the moment she reached the marker, an unexpected wave of emotion overtook her.

    Staring at the memorial, now a thriving micro-reef draped in soft corals and sponges, tears flooded her eyes. As she quieted her mind to listen, she felt a gentle, unmistakeable connection to the ancestors whose stories the site holds: “My daughter, we’re so glad you’re here.” Overwhelmed by gratitude, she lingered at the marker, which bears the inscription: “Henrietta Marie. In memory and recognition of the courage, pain and suffering on enslaved African people. Speak her name and gently touch the souls of our ancestors.” “Without their stamina, their spirit and survival, I wouldn’t be here today. None of us would be here today,” Browning reflected after her dive.

    This pilgrimage was years in the making. The group’s 2023 attempt to reach the site was foiled by dangerously choppy waters, which group members framed as a sign the timing was not right. “The ancestors were not smiling down on us then,” said Jay Haigler, a master diving instructor with Underwater Adventure Seekers, the world’s oldest Black scuba diving club. “This year was different.”

    Michael Cottman, an author of two books on the Henrietta Marie and a member of the National Association of Black Scuba Divers that installed the memorial in 1992, noted that this journey was never supposed to be simple. The site carries what he calls “spiritual turbulence”: “Even if it wasn’t carrying enslaved people, it embodies the oppression of our people.” After annual pilgrimages in the 1990s lapsed, the 2024 trip was revived by an underwater oral history project led by Stanford University anthropologist Ayana Omilade Flewellen, who serves on the board of Diving With a Purpose, a Black-led nonprofit dedicated to documenting and preserving slave shipwreck sites.

    For Flewellen, the submerged interviews conducted during the pilgrimage became a deeply personal spiritual practice. “I felt a kind of tenderness in my heart,” she said. Processing the traumatic history of death and suffering that defines the site has long been a challenge, she explained: “It’s hard to attach your life with this history. The only way I could do that was turn toward what the divers were experiencing on this pilgrimage. That’s where it all bloomed and blossomed.”

    Beyond the underwater memorial, the pilgrimage also included a land-based ritual at Higgs Beach, where 297 African refugees who were rescued from three illegal slave ships in 1860 are buried. After the U.S. Navy intercepted the ships *Wildfire*, *William* and *Bogota*, the government housed more than 1,400 surviving refugees in a coastal compound, but hundreds died from the devastating health effects of their inhumane confinement on the crossing, explained Corey Malcom, lead historian at the Florida Keys History Center.

    Forgotten for nearly 150 years, the burial ground was rediscovered by researchers using ground-penetrating radar, and in 2010 a mass grave holding 100 additional bodies was found at a nearby community dog park, which has since been fenced off to protect the site. During this year’s pilgrimage, the group gathered at the cemetery to hold a traditional libation ceremony, an ancient Afro-Caribbean spiritual practice. One by one, members poured white rum—believed to act as a messenger between the living and ancestral worlds—onto the sand, tearfully honoring the lives lost. “To honor your ancestors and the road they’ve traveled is very, very important because we’re all connected,” said Addeliar Guy, a group elder and lifelong diver.

    For many participants, the most striking revelation of the pilgrimage was that the Henrietta Marie site is not merely a place of death and grief—it is a place of living history. Joel Johnson, president and CEO of the National Marine Sanctuary Foundation, trained for weeks to complete his first open-water dive at the site. He was surprised by the vibrant life that now surrounds the memorial: colorful fish dart through swaying corals, and seashells dot the sandy seafloor. Protecting these marine habitats, he said, is inextricably linked to protecting the history they hold. “This was not a place of death, but a place of life,” Johnson explained. “I didn’t feel like I was grieving for my ancestors. I felt like I was in the stream of history, recognizing that I’m a part of that. It made me happy.”

    Michael Philip Davenport, president of Underwater Adventure Seekers, left the site inspired to create new art depicting ancestors emerging from the memorial. “Their spirituality is still in that space,” he said. “I was feeling their lives and their tragedy.”

    For Dr. Melody Garrett, an anesthesiologist who has worked with Diving With a Purpose to locate another slave shipwreck, the Guerrero, this pilgrimage is more urgent now than ever. She pointed to recent political efforts to erase references to slavery and Black history from U.S. national parks and federal cultural institutions, including moves during the Trump administration that labeled teachings on slavery as divisive “anti-American propaganda.” As the United States prepares to mark its 250th founding anniversary, Garrett said the site reinforces a fundamental truth about American identity: “Black people have been here since before this country’s inception, longer than many other people have. This is our country.”

    Fragments of the Henrietta Marie’s wooden hull still rest beneath the sand at the wreck site. Discovered in 1972 by treasure hunter Mel Fisher, the wreck was fully excavated in 1983, yielding hundreds of intact artifacts. Out of an estimated 35,000 ships that transported more than 12 million enslaved African people across the Atlantic, only a handful have ever been located—most were destroyed intentionally to cover up evidence of the illicit trade. Today, the Henrietta Marie’s artifacts fill an entire floor of Key West’s Mel Fisher Maritime Museum, including more than 80 sets of iron shackles, many sized for children.

    When Kory Lamberts, who runs a nonprofit working to expand equitable access to aquatic recreation, first visited the exhibit, the wooden display planks creaked under his feet, and the gravity of the history hit him instantly. “It was visceral,” he said. “It took me to a place. It also tells me that these were young people — children. These are baby shackles. There’s no sugarcoating it. The truth really hits you.” After his dive, Lamberts brought back fish caught near the Henrietta Marie site—fish he believes carry the ancestral DNA of those who died there. The group ate the fish for dinner the night after their dives, a quiet sacrament of connection. “I don’t practice a faith, but isn’t this what people are doing every Sunday at church?” he asked. “I wasn’t just bonded with this site through the experience of being there, but at this molecular level with a full circle moment of connection with myself and my history.”

    This coverage of religious and cultural practice is supported by the Associated Press through a partnership with The Conversation US, with funding from Lilly Endowment Inc. The AP holds sole responsibility for this content.

  • Bone appetit: Paris pups lap up treats at dog-centric spots

    Bone appetit: Paris pups lap up treats at dog-centric spots

    Paris, the global capital of culinary art, is expanding its gourmet tradition beyond two-legged patrons, welcoming a wave of new establishments that cater first and foremost to the city’s four-legged canine residents, filling a long-unmet need for local pet owners.

    At Casa del Doggo, a canine-focused patisserie run by Parisian entrepreneur Clara Zambuto, fluffy one-year-old Pomeranian Loulou is a regular face. After finishing his €5 “Le Merveilleux” treat—crafted with dog-safe ingredients including banana puree, cream cheese, apple, and beef—Loulou lets out a satisfied woof, a response any restaurant owner would be thrilled to receive. Nearby, the glass display case holds a lineup of pet-friendly sweets that look nearly indistinguishable from human pastries, from heart-shaped “Le Mignon” made with sweet potato, cream cheese, and blueberry to croissant and baguette-shaped treats for pups who crave a classic Parisian snack vibe.

    Zambuto’s journey into opening the dog bakery grew out of her own experience as a dog owner. After adopting her three-year-old Pomeranian Hulk, she grew frustrated that she couldn’t bring her pet along for the quintessential Parisian ritual of stopping for coffee and a snack. “I’d often go for walks with him… pop into a cafe like a proper Parisian, but he’d soon get bored,” the 26-year-old explained. “I thought it was a shame there weren’t places in Paris where, while you’re having a quick coffee, you can also treat your pet. Now dogs are really like our children for most of us—we want to be able to take him everywhere.”

    What began as homemade treats in Zambuto’s kitchen eventually grew into a full storefront, with a trained professional pastry chef now helping craft pet-safe recipes that strictly avoid ingredients toxic to dogs, including chocolate, avocado, grapes, and onions. That doesn’t mean unlimited snacking, though: Lolita Sommaire, a veterinarian specializing in canine and feline nutrition, notes that moderation is just as important for dogs as it is for humans to prevent unhealthy weight gain. “If they’ve been to a patisserie, you need to adjust their next meal, cut back a little, or get them doing more exercise,” she advised. “But if it’s once a month, it’s not a big deal.”

    Casa del Doggo is far from the only dog-first spot popping up across the city, which is home to an estimated 100,000 registered and unregistered canines. At Le Bone Appart, a dog cafe named as a playful nod to French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, dogs can roam freely across a bench-lined outdoor terrace while their owners relax. On a recent afternoon, Marley, an American shepherd sporting a tiny fashion beret, could be found lapping up the last bits of a chantilly-based “pup cup” off the pavement.

    Le Bone Appart owner Rebecca Anhalt, a US native who moved to Paris, launched her space after she received a steep fine for letting her five-year-old whippet Napoleon off-leash in a public park. “I wanted to create a place where people could come and not fear… being scolded for having your dog,” she said.

    Local advocacy groups have long pushed for more pet-friendly public spaces in Paris. The organization Paris Condition Canine points out that while the city does offer more than 40 off-leash areas for dogs, these existing spaces are “insufficient, unevenly distributed, and sometimes ill-suited” to meet the needs of the city’s large dog-owning population. The demand for more pet-friendly amenities has even seeped into local politics: during Paris’ 2026 mayoral race, incumbent mayor Emmanuel Gregoire launched an Instagram account dedicated to photos with local dogs, while rival candidate Rachida Dati hosted a dog-focused social aperitif to win over pet owners.

    For many regulars, these dog-centric spots offer more than just treats for their pups—they create a welcoming third space outside of work and home that strengthens bonds between owners and their pets, and builds community among fellow dog lovers. Sarah Elgamal, Loulou’s owner, describes herself as the Pomeranian’s “mother,” and says trips to the patisserie boost her connection with her pet. It “improves our connection, because we’re both in a third place that’s neither work nor home,” the 32-year-old pharmacist explained.

    Anhalt notes that even with dogs as the top priority, many human visitors come for the social connection with other pet owners as much as for their pups. “Dogs are a really good connector,” she said. One recent transplant to Paris now visits the cafe every day with his 17-year-old dachshund, just to “be part of the group and meet people.” After all, Anhalt adds: “you’ll talk to anybody about your dog.”

  • Paris’ Invalides is more than Napoleon’s tomb. For 350 years, it has been a home for war wounded

    Paris’ Invalides is more than Napoleon’s tomb. For 350 years, it has been a home for war wounded

    Towering over the Paris skyline, the gilded dome of Les Invalides is recognized worldwide as the final resting place of French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, drawing more than 1.4 million tourists to its historic museums and mausoleum every year. But few visitors understand that beneath the landmark’s iconic facade, a quiet, centuries-old core mission endures: for more than 350 years, this complex has served as a permanent home and specialized hospital for wounded veterans and civilian victims of war and terror attacks.

    First commissioned in the 17th century by King Louis XIV, the National Institution of Invalides welcomed its first group of retired and injured soldiers in 1670, marking the first time a European state took formal, long-term responsibility for caring for its war-wounded — a duty previously left entirely to religious orders. Today, the institution houses 64 residents, ranging from young combat veterans injured in overseas deployments to 90-plus-year-old Holocaust survivors who count themselves among the last living witnesses of Nazi atrocities.

    As the original facilities have aged, the French government has launched a major 100 million euro ($108 million) renovation project, with public funding covering core infrastructure and private donors invited to sponsor upgrades to individual residential rooms. This month, the institution granted exclusive access to Associated Press reporters, opening up the residential wings that sit just steps from Napoleon’s grand central sarcophagus — a rare look at the living community that shares space with one of Paris’ top tourist landmarks.

    “Les Invalides is a unique place — a magical, incredible and grand site,” explained General Christophe de Saint Chamas, the military officer who serves as the institution’s governor. He noted that from its inception, the project carried dual meaning: it demonstrated Louis XIV’s commitment to his soldiers, and it stood as one of the first formal acts of state-sponsored social care in modern history. “Before that, religious communities were taking in the wounded by obligation. Here, the state said: we’re taking care of them, over the long term, until their death,” de Saint Chamas said.

    Across its 350-year history, Les Invalides has tracked every turning point in French history: it was stormed by revolutionaries seeking weapons during the 1789 French Revolution, expanded to house thousands of veterans under Napoleon’s rule, and opened its doors to civilian war victims for the first time in the 20th century. Today, two of its most prominent residents are 101-year-old Ginette Kolinka and 98-year-old Esther Senot, both Auschwitz-Birkenau death camp survivors who have dedicated decades to educating young people about the Holocaust to ensure its atrocities are never forgotten.

    Senot, born to Polish Jewish parents in Paris, was just 15 when she was arrested by French police and deported to Auschwitz in 1943. Of the 1,000 people packed into her cattle car transport, only she and one other person survived. She spent 17 months in Nazi camps, returning to France after liberation weighing just 70 pounds, having lost 17 family members including her parents and six siblings. For decades after the war, she faced widespread indifference to the stories of deportees — it was only during a 1985 visit to Auschwitz that she began speaking publicly, after challenging a tour guide’s inaccurate account that erased the majority-Jewish identity of most camp victims.

    “When people asked me to share my story, I could not say no,” Senot recalled, showing the identification number the Nazis tattooed on her left arm. She moved to Les Invalides after her husband’s death and as her own medical needs grew, a choice shaped by her connection to the institution: her brother, a soldier in the French 2nd Armored Division that helped liberate France from Nazi occupation, lived at Les Invalides for 10 years in the 2000s. “I used to come visit him regularly, and I already knew the community here. When I found myself alone in old age, coming here felt natural,” she said.

    For younger wounded veterans, Les Invalides offers more than just medical care — it provides a ready-made community bound by shared experience of combat and injury. Master Corporal Mikaele Iva, who was left disabled after a parachute accident during a deployment to Gabon in 2021, has lived at the institution since his injury. He uses a wheelchair, but still competes in adaptive sports including fencing, archery and golf through the facility’s sports club, and represents Les Invalides at national ceremonies.

    “Over time, we become a second family here,” Iva explained. Residents gather to chat in the common coffee room, attend football matches and concerts together, and support one another through the challenges of living with disability. “We share both joyful moments and hard days. That’s the same as military life: we get back on our feet after injury, and we never leave each other behind, no matter what,” he said. Iva added that he finds deep meaning in the care France provides through Les Invalides: his former comrade, whom he pulled to safety after a severe injury during a deployment to Afghanistan, also lives at the institution, a tangible reminder of the nation’s promise to stand by those who serve.

    Caregivers share that same sense of national purpose. “We devote ourselves to them body and soul,” said Mustapha Nachet, a nurse coordinator who has worked at the residential center since 2014. “This is the nation’s way of giving back for everything they have given for our country.” Nachet noted that care at Les Invalides is deeply personalized, as the needs of a 30-year-old wounded combat veteran are vastly different from those of a 99-year-old civilian Holocaust survivor.

    Beyond residential care, Les Invalides operates a world-leading specialized hospital for people with severe war-related disabilities, with cutting-edge expertise in prosthetics and rehabilitation. Its medical teams conduct ongoing research to improve mobility for amputees and wheelchair users, and they have treated dozens of survivors of the 2015 terror attacks across Paris, including victims of the Bataclan concert hall massacre.

    General Sylvain Ausset, the institution’s medical director, notes that across centuries, the facility has documented how the nature of war injury has evolved with each new conflict. “Each conflict leaves its own mark, and none ever erases a previous one,” he explained. “In World War I, we saw severe facial injuries on a mass scale that people rarely survived before. In World War II, more soldiers with spinal cord injuries that caused paraplegia and quadriplegia began to survive. In more recent conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan, we saw multiple amputations on a scale never seen before. Today, the defining injury we treat is psychological trauma.”

    For de Saint Chamas, the institution’s centuries-long mission remains as vital today as it was when Louis XIV broke ground in the 1600s. It is a tangible promise to active-duty troops: “It allows active-duty troops to deploy knowing that if something happens to them, France will be there.”

  • France blames stomach bug for new cruise outbreak, lifts lockdown

    France blames stomach bug for new cruise outbreak, lifts lockdown

    In the wake of a sudden illness outbreak aboard a British cruise ship anchored off western France, local authorities have cleared asymptomatic passengers to disembark, after confirming that a common gastrointestinal virus — not the internationally concerning hantavirus linked to a recent fatal outbreak on another vessel — is the cause of the illness. The incident, which sparked initial public alarm following the death of a 92-year-old British passenger, has been brought under control through targeted precautionary measures.

    The Ambition, operated by UK-based Ambassador Cruise Line, carrying 1,233 passengers (the vast majority from Britain and Ireland) and 514 crew members, first reported a spike in gastrointestinal symptoms among passengers when it docked in Brest, Brittany, on Monday. The 92-year-old passenger died before the ship reached the Brittany port, and initial reports of his death alongside dozens of sick passengers triggered swift action: French officials ordered a full temporary lockdown of the vessel, which later sailed to its scheduled stop in Bordeaux, where it remained anchored while health officials conducted testing.

    Local government and regional health authorities confirmed in an official statement Wednesday that testing ruled out any connection to the hantavirus outbreak that killed three people on the Dutch-flagged MV Hondius, an incident that had already stoked global public health anxiety. They confirmed the outbreak on the Ambition is a viral gastrointestinal infection, with no severe cases recorded among those affected. Officials also clarified that the 92-year-old passenger’s death was caused by a heart attack, and no link has been found between his death and the gastroenteritis outbreak. Per international conventions, the man’s body remains on the vessel pending next steps.

    French authorities noted that the full lockdown was implemented out of an abundance of caution, specifically to prevent unnecessary public panic amid ongoing attention to the Hondius hantavirus incident. As of Wednesday, asymptomatic passengers were permitted to leave the ship, while those showing symptoms of the virus remain in isolation aboard the vessel. The cruise line confirmed that cases of illness began rising after new passengers boarded in Liverpool, UK, on Saturday, during the ship’s scheduled itinerary.

    The Ambition departed the Shetland Islands, Scotland, on May 6, made stops in Belfast and Liverpool before arriving in Bordeaux, and was originally scheduled to sail from Bordeaux to Spain before returning to Liverpool on May 22. Passengers aboard the ship described a calm atmosphere despite the temporary lockdown, with many continuing routine activities. “We are onboard with extra sanitation guidelines in place. It is not as bad as it was during Covid. People just going about as normal,” Seos Guilidhe, a 52-year-old passenger from Belfast, told AFP via Facebook while playing bingo aboard the ship Wednesday, before confirming that restrictions had been lifted and asymptomatic passengers were allowed to disembark. For infected passengers, however, the experience has been far less comfortable: “Two of us in one cabin with the bug is a challenge,” one infected passenger wrote on social media.

  • Berlin launches scheme to swap trash for treats

    Berlin launches scheme to swap trash for treats

    Berlin has kicked off an innovative new pilot program that turns environmentally conscious actions into tangible perks for both residents and visitors, drawing inspiration from a successful trial launched earlier this year in Copenhagen. Dubbed BerlinPay, the initiative centers on encouraging sustainable behavior across the German capital, with a particular focus on cleaning up the iconic Spree River that cuts through the heart of the city and boosting sustainable water tourism. The pilot program will run through June 14, and invites participants to earn rewards by completing eco-friendly activities beyond litter collection, from planting native flowers and watering urban greenery to switching from car trips to cycling. The city’s extensive network of summer-popular lakes and waterways, a major draw for tourists each year, also stands to benefit from the scheme’s environmental goals. Deputy mayor Franziska Giffey noted that Berlin’s water tourism sector is currently experiencing strong growth and is a key contributor to the local economy, but the increasing popularity of these waterways also comes with measurable environmental costs. Speaking at Wednesday’s launch press conference, VisitBerlin CEO Sabine Wendt explained that the project aims to encourage both Berlin residents and out-of-town guests to engage with the city in a more thoughtful, environmentally aware way. To join the initiative, participants register for free through the official VisitBerlin platform, where they can choose from more than 5,000 available activity slots. Around 40 partner organizations including local businesses, cultural associations, and public museums have signed on to offer rewards for completed actions, ranging from discounted meals at local restaurants and free canoe tours on the Spree to complimentary entry to Berlin’s world-famous museum collections. The core mission of the program extends far beyond cleaning up local waterways: organizers hope to foster long-term environmental awareness among both residents and the millions of tourists who visit Berlin each year. BerlinPay is directly modeled after Copenhagen’s CopenPay program, which launched in 2024 and saw impressive early results: more than 75,000 tourists participated in the initiative’s first month, bike rentals across the city jumped 29%, and volunteers collected multiple tons of improperly discarded litter. If the Berlin pilot delivers similar positive outcomes, Giffey confirmed the city plans to make BerlinPay an annual recurring event for the capital.