BUDAPEST, Hungary — A pioneering pizzeria in the Hungarian capital is offering culinary adventurers a taste of ancient Rome with a historically inspired creation that predates the modern pizza by nearly two millennia. Neverland Pizzeria, located in central Budapest, has developed a limited-edition dish using exclusively ingredients available during the Roman Empire era, challenging conventional notions of what constitutes pizza.
Founder Josep Zara explained that the project originated from a question about historical culinary practices. ‘Curiosity drove us to explore what pizza might have resembled in ancient times,’ Zara stated. ‘We journeyed back to the Roman Empire to investigate whether they consumed anything resembling pizza.’
Historical accuracy required significant innovation since tomatoes and mozzarella—staples of contemporary pizza—were unavailable in Europe until centuries later. Archaeological discoveries, particularly a 2023 excavation in Pompeii that revealed frescoes depicting flatbreads with various toppings, provided inspiration for the culinary experiment.
Zara conducted extensive research into Roman gastronomy, consulting with German historians and studying the ancient cookbook ‘De re coquinaria’ from the 5th century. This historical investigation yielded a list of authenticated ingredients that head chef László Bárdossy and his team incorporated into their creation.
The development process presented substantial technical challenges. ‘We faced months of experimentation and several failed attempts,’ Bárdossy revealed. ‘The absence of modern water systems in Roman times complicated our dough preparation, as water constitutes over 80% of pizza dough.’
The culinary team devised innovative solutions, including using fermented spinach juice as a leavening agent and incorporating ancient grains like einkorn and spelt that were commonly cultivated during the Roman period. The resulting dough possesses a denser texture than conventional pizza bases.
The finished product features aristocratic Roman ingredients including epityrum (olive paste), garum (ubiquitous fermented fish sauce), confit duck leg, toasted pine nuts, ricotta cheese, and a grape reduction. While acknowledging the creation’s niche appeal, Bárdossy describes it as ‘something special’ that blends historical authenticity with modern culinary accessibility.
The project reflects Neverland Pizzeria’s commitment to balancing innovation with tradition, though Zara humorously noted one modern boundary they maintain: ‘We definitely do not use pineapple.’