PARIS — Alessandro Michele’s highly anticipated debut as Creative Director at Valentino Couture unfolded as a masterclass in theatrical tension, staged against the poignant backdrop of founder Valentino Garavani’s recent passing. The presentation, attended by luminaries including Sir Elton John, Dakota Johnson, and Kirsten Dunst, transformed fashion spectacle into intimate revelation.
Guests navigated through near-total darkness to discover minimalist stools positioned before circular pods, each featuring a small viewing window. As the show commenced, blinds retracted to reveal models framed like curated artifacts behind glass, while a classical soundtrack abruptly gave way to aggressive animal sounds. This sterile, futuristic environment created an unsettling yet captivating atmosphere that redefined the couture viewing experience.
Michele, renowned for maximalist instincts at Gucci, demonstrated remarkable restraint in his Valentino debut. The collection presented disco-inspired elements—sparkling gems, bedazzled headwear, and layered gold collars with subtle circus references—yet overall conveyed a cautious approach. Notable highlights included dramatically proportioned leg-of-mutton sleeves, light-catching sequined surfaces, and billowing skirts that deliberately overwhelmed the human form.
The presentation’s emotional weight was amplified by its timing, following immediately after Garavani’s funeral in Rome. Fashion critic Suzy Menkes, who attended both events, emphasized the significance: “People feel emotional because it is an end of an era.” She noted Garavani’s unique position as “a designer that everybody could understand,” whose influence extended far beyond industry insiders to global clients and celebrities.
While acknowledging Michele’s exceptional showcraft capabilities, Menkes reflected on the irreplaceable nature of iconic designers: “It’s not the same character… it doesn’t seem to be the same person who was there before.” The collection thus represented both a respectful homage to Valentino’s legacy and a careful calibration of how far Michele can reinterpret house codes while honoring their essence.