PARIS — Hermès transformed the prestigious Garde Républicaine barracks into an immersive olfactory experience during Paris Fashion Week, presenting its fall-winter collection through a multisensory showcase that redefined luxury fashion presentation.
The venue’s floor was entirely carpeted with thick, damp moss that emitted the rich, earthy scent of humus, creating an atmospheric forest environment. Models emerged from luminous circular openings in the walls, resembling figures stepping through full moons, as they traversed a raised, winding catwalk above the vegetation.
Creative Director Nadège Vanhée, who has helmed Hermès womenswear since 2014, titled the collection “Entre chien et loup” – a French expression referring to dusk’s ambiguous moment when distinguishing between dog and wolf becomes challenging. The presentation achieved Vanhée’s intended effect of disrupting conventional fashion show expectations without resorting to gimmicks.
The collection itself presented muscular, body-conscious designs built for movement rather than mythological references. Leather dominated the lineup, featuring fluid overcoats with substantial Tuscan sheepskin collars and zip-front mini dresses in deep blue that revealed contrasting shirts beneath. A standout orange ostrich-leather jumpsuit combined biker attitude with Hermès’ signature refinement.
The house’s equestrian heritage surfaced in jodhpurs and flat-heeled riding boots, while glossy lambskin cycling shorts paired with aviator jackets introduced urban elements. Vanhée’s color palette avoided conventional darkness, instead transitioning through sulfur yellow, oxblood red, forest green, and iridescent burgundy – surfaces that captured and transformed light dynamically.
Functional zips appeared throughout the collection, slicing diagonally across jackets or running the full length of dresses, suggesting garments could be reconfigured and renewed. Double-breasted blazers and cigarette trousers provided tailored structure, while quilted silks printed with cloud-strewn skies offered moments of softness.