Should K-beauty products have to come from South Korea?

The global skincare market has been captivated by the allure of Korean beauty products, commonly referred to as K-beauty. These products, known for their intricate multi-step routines and innovative formulations, have seen exponential growth in international markets. Last year, South Korea’s K-beauty exports soared to an impressive $10.3 billion, marking a significant milestone in the industry’s expansion. However, this success has also led to a proliferation of non-Korean brands capitalizing on the K-beauty trend, raising questions about authenticity and definition. K-beauty first gained international recognition in the 2010s, riding the wave of Korean cultural exports like K-pop and K-drama. The elaborate skincare regimens, often involving up to 10 steps, captured the imagination of consumers worldwide, driving sales from $650 million in 2011 to $4 billion in 2017. Recognizing this surge, companies like Seoul Ceuticals emerged in 2017, offering ‘authentic Korean skincare’ despite being a U.S.-based manufacturer. The brand emphasizes its use of Korean-sourced ingredients to justify its K-beauty label. However, not all industry players agree with this approach. Seung Gu Kim, co-founder of Hwarangpoom, insists that true K-beauty products must be manufactured in Korea, reflecting a Korean perspective in their design and ingredients. The lack of an official definition or protected designation of origin for K-beauty complicates matters further. The K-beauty Industry Association, the sector’s sole government-approved trade body, has no plans to establish such a definition, focusing instead on promoting the industry’s global growth. Despite the absence of formal regulations, the association mandates that member companies be registered in South Korea and obtain approval from the Korea Food & Drug Administration (KFDA). This approval ensures products are tailored to Korea’s climate and market standards. The booming K-beauty market has also attracted counterfeiters, with MarqVision identifying $280 million worth of fake products in the U.S. alone in 2024. This rampant counterfeiting has frustrated consumers like Gracie Tulio, founder of PureSeoul, who launched her London-based retail business in 2019 to provide authentic K-beauty products directly sourced from Korean manufacturers. As the K-beauty industry continues to thrive, the debate over authenticity and the battle against counterfeits remain pressing challenges.