At Nepal school, outpouring of grief for climber Nirmal Purja

As rescue teams pulled the body of iconic British-Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja from Pakistan’s Broad Peak on Sunday, waves of sorrow washed over the Nepali boarding school where his legendary grit first took root. Hundreds of kilometers from the avalanche site, teachers, former classmates and current students gathered at Small Heaven School in Nepal’s southern Chitwan district, gathering around a flower-draped framed portrait of the 43-year-old climber who reshaped modern mountaineering.

Lighting ceremonial candles in his honor, attendees shared intimate memories of the young boy who would grow to become one of the most celebrated figures in the climbing world. Dhiraj Bahadur Panta, a childhood school friend of Purja, told AFP his voice shaking with emotion that the entire community had held out hope through the days Purja was missing. “When he was missing, we were praying for him and spent sleepless nights,” Panta said. “It was not only me and my friends. I think people all over the world who knew him… prayed for him. But it was his fate, no one could avoid it.”

Purja died alongside nine other climbers after being caught in an unexpected massive avalanche on Broad Peak last Thursday. News of his passing triggered an outpouring of heartfelt tributes from the global climbing community and public figures alike, with Britain’s Prince William among those offering formal condolences.

Purja first arrived at the Chitwan boarding school as a young boy, spending eight years building deep connections with the institution’s staff and fellow students before moving on to join the British Gurkhas. That path would lead him to elite military service, and eventually, to global mountaineering stardom that put Nepali climbing expertise on the world map.

On Sunday, current students filed one by one past Purja’s portrait, laying fresh flowers and offering quiet prayers, while former teachers recalled the young pupil who showed remarkable courage and discipline even at a young age. Shailendra Baral, who supervised Purja during his time in the school’s hostel, told AFP that his exceptional character was obvious from early childhood. “Even when he was in class three, he was fearless and committed to achieving something,” Baral said. “He was honest and an obedient student, which made us happy. We found courage in him even when he was a child.”

Purja’s climbing career was defined by record-breaking feats that stunned the global climbing community. In 2019, he completed the ascent of all 14 of the world’s highest peaks in just over six months, smashing the previous record of seven years. The extraordinary achievement was later documented in a popular Netflix documentary, which inspired a new generation of young climbers and elevated Nepal’s profile in a sport that had long been dominated by Western adventurers.

In 2021, Purja joined the historic all-Nepali team that pulled off the first winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest peak and one of the most dangerous and coveted challenges in professional mountaineering. When he returned to Chitwan in 2022 for a screening of his documentary, he received a hero’s welcome from the local community. In a social media post marking the occasion, Purja reflected on his roots at the school, writing: “I grew up here, running around with no shoes on. This is my hometown and so I wanted everyone here to see the film and inspire the younger generation.”

For current students gathered to mourn him on Sunday, Purja’s trailblazing achievements have long been woven into the school’s collective identity. “It really feels bad to hear this news because we had always heard good things about him,” said student Sarbagya Paudel. “His bravery has set a great example for our school. Not only has he made our school proud, but he has also brought pride to Nepal. It is heartbreaking to know that he is no longer with us.”