An old tradition finds new life as Germans flock to forests to collect mushrooms

POTSDAM, Germany — In the heart of an oak and beech forest on the outskirts of Potsdam, Wolfgang Bivour, a renowned fungi expert, carefully laid out a basket of freshly collected mushrooms. Among the assortment were brown-capped porcini, bay boletes, slimy purple brittlegills, honey-colored armillaria, and the deadly green death caps. Bivour, a 75-year-old retired meteorologist, led a group of 20 eager participants, including university students, retirees, and a Chinese couple with their young daughter, through the intricacies of mushroom identification. This scene is emblematic of a broader trend across Germany, where mushroom hunting is experiencing a resurgence, fueled by the pandemic and the rising popularity of vegan lifestyles. Historically, mushroom foraging was a necessity in post-World War II Germany, but as the economy improved, the practice waned. However, recent years have seen a revival, with social media playing a pivotal role in transforming this once-unfashionable hobby into a chic pastime. Bivour’s guided tours, which emphasize the ecological importance of mushrooms and biodiversity, have become immensely popular. He is often consulted by hospitals in cases of suspected mushroom poisoning and has been leading tours in the Potsdam region for over five decades. His sessions, organized by the local institution Urania, are in high demand, reflecting a growing public interest in fungi. Despite the enthusiasm, many newcomers approach mushroom hunting with caution, wary of the dangers posed by toxic varieties like the green death cap, which can be mistaken for common button mushrooms. Tragically, several deaths occur annually, often involving immigrants unfamiliar with local species. Participants like Tim Köster, a 25-year-old university student, express a desire to learn but remain hesitant to forage independently. Instead, they prefer to consult experts to verify the safety of their finds. Margit Reimann, a 42-year-old participant, acknowledged the vast array of edible mushrooms but plans to stick to familiar varieties when foraging with her children. The revival of mushroom hunting in Germany is a testament to the enduring allure of nature, the importance of education, and the need for caution in the face of potential dangers.