MILAN — Michelle Francine Ngonmo, a 38-year-old Cameroonian-Italian activist, has emerged as a transformative force in Italy’s fashion landscape, dedicating her career to amplifying African voices and people of color in an industry historically lacking representation. As founder of the Afrofashion Association, Ngonmo has spent the past decade producing runway shows, mentoring emerging talent, and recognizing groundbreaking achievements through her recently established Black Carpet Awards.
The association’s impact is quantifiable: Ngonmo has collaborated with 3,000 individuals of color, with 92 now established in sustainable creative careers. These numbers simultaneously demonstrate progress and highlight the considerable work remaining in diversifying Italian fashion.
The movement gained momentum following the Black Lives Matter protests, which exposed the conspicuous absence of people of color in Italy’s prestigious design studios. Ngonmo partnered with designers Stella Jean and Edward Buchanan to launch the ‘We Are Made in Italy’ (WAMI) initiative, demanding concrete action rather than symbolic gestures from fashion houses. This collaboration emerged as several prominent brands faced scandals over racially insensitive designs and campaigns.
Despite initial industry enthusiasm, attention waned as diversity funding diminished and economic pressures mounted. Ngonmo now strategically focuses on maintaining relationships with committed organizations like the Italian National Fashion Chamber, which continues supporting Black designers during Milan Fashion Week.
Ghanaian designer Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart exemplifies this progress. After immigrating to Italy nine years ago, he has advanced from showcasing at the Black Carpet Awards to presenting full collections during fashion week, recently debuting his predominantly denim line to a packed audience that included Chamber president Carlo Capasa.
Both Ngonmo and Abbey-Hart acknowledge persistent challenges. The designer notes that racial bias often disqualifies candidates before interviews even occur, urging the industry to evaluate talent rather than ethnicity. Capasa concedes Italy has considerable work ahead in diversity and inclusion, acknowledging Ngonmo’s instrumental role in helping institutions understand minority communities’ needs from mentorship to education.