‘I miss the past, but we like the money’: The Bali-fication of a laidback surfers’ island

Indonesia is ambitiously transforming Lombok into a new tourist hotspot, aiming to replicate the success of Bali. Known for its pristine beaches, Mount Rinjani, and serene landscapes, Lombok offers a quieter alternative to its bustling neighbor. However, this ‘Balification’ comes with both opportunities and challenges for locals and the environment. Damar, a surf guide, exemplifies the personal and societal shifts brought by tourism. Once fearful of foreigners, he now thrives in the industry, earning twice as much as traditional fishermen. Yet, his story is tinged with the pain of eviction, as his village made way for the Mandalika circuit, a centerpiece of Lombok’s tourism push. The government’s efforts have attracted significant investment, including a $250 million loan from the Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank, accelerating infrastructure development. However, this rapid transformation has sparked tensions. Evictions in Tanjung Aan, where nearly 200 stalls were demolished, have left many locals without livelihoods. Critics argue that the project prioritizes economic growth over human rights and environmental sustainability. Lombok’s cultural identity is also at stake. The predominantly Muslim island, home to the Sasak ethnic group, faces potential shifts in its conservative values as tourism grows. Environmental concerns loom large, with events like the motorcycle Grand Prix generating significant waste. Despite these challenges, tourism has brought prosperity to some, like homestay owner Lara, who has expanded her business significantly. Yet, she reminisces about the slower pace of life before the tourism boom. As Lombok navigates this new era, it must balance economic growth with preserving its unique identity and addressing the concerns of its people.